I’ve never been able to get a clean first layer with this machine. I have given it a beacon probe and it just made it much faster to get the same problem to happen again. Where am I going wrong?
I’ve never been able to get a clean first layer with this machine. I have given it a beacon probe and it just made it much faster to get the same problem to happen again. Where am I going wrong?
It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.
How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.
And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.
Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.
I looked at your guide and theres something interesting mentioned for my model, the trident. the actual temp is lower that the measured temp on the top of the bed due to the thickness of the bed! I shoudl raise it by 10 degrees. I’m going to try that in a bit
Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.
I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.
I notice my open air bambu labs p1p doest have any problems like this and it doesnt need a heat soak. Isnt the voron a better machine with higher quality parts?
its a 25 minute heat soak before each and every print. I wonder if I should break that out of the print start macro and make its own macro.
its a magnetic sheet so that shouldn’t throw anything off. I flipped to the smooth side of the sheet which is much takier but its still having the same issues.