One more picture below.
Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.
They’re 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.
One more picture below.
Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.
They’re 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.
I would personally cram in something related to COAX-SEAL into the screw holes. Having setup a few cables outside for antennas (ham radio) I have learned to never trust metal to metal connections when exposed to weather.
Coax-seal might be a bit hard to work with, so maybe some silicone caulk would work?
Water will find it’s way in even if you try to seal it. Just put some anti seize on the threads.
I absolutely agree and the goal is to extend that time for as long as possible. (But yeah, anti seize is actually a really good idea.)
Sounds like you have never had the “pleasure” of working with coax junction sealants before. It’s not too bad, but it’s also not fun either. It is very effective though.
I usually use butyl tape to seal my coax connections. It’s a bit of a pain to remove, but mineral spirits cleans off the residue fairly well.
There was a precursor to butyl tape that I am thinking of specifically. It was more clay-like and just as nasty. (It would have been easier (subjective) to pinch off balls of the stuff and cram it in those screw holes.)
No mind. You had the correct solution, me thinks.
Due to the two piece construction here you would have to wrap this whole thing in sealant to keep water out because (to para-quote Dr. Ian Malcolm) “water uhh finds a way”.
Dab of anti-sieze or stainless hardware would be my go to if I wanted to pull this apart after a couple years.
Ah, galvanic corrosion. Sealing the heat sets would be a pain as they’re open to water on both sides. I also don’t tend to take these apart, so I’m tempted to just leave them alone.