Lemmy.world is weird about posting grow pics. Dig around to about the start of my post history for pics about how grows are done on a moderate scale.

I get my strains from Denver Spore Company. (It’s googlable, again, not posting direct links cause .world is weird like that.)

Depends on the strain and you. On average, between 1/4 gram and 1 gram dried for me to get a decent buzz, but if I want to visit another universe, +5 grams or so. (Warning: “breakthrough” doses are no joke. It’s full emersion and your visual cortex is kinda useless for a couple of hours. It’ll just nope-out in a geometric maze for a bit. For the inexperienced, this is also potential psychosis territory.)

I don’t drink anymore, which was kinda the goal. There isn’t really a need for me to go high dosage anymore and haven’t in a year or more. Even my low altitude orbits are limited to once every other month or so now.

I would look into something like Doppler instead of Vault. (I don’t trust any company acquired by IBM. They have been aquiring and enshittifying companies before there was even a name for it.)

Look into how any different solutions need their keys presented. Dumping the creds in ENV is generally fine since the keys will need to be stored and used somehow. You might need a dedicated user account to manage keys in its home folder.

This is actually a host security problem, not generally a key storage problem per se. Regardless of how you have a vault setup, my approach here is to create a single host that acts as a gateway for the rest of the credentials. (This applies to if keys are stored in “the cloud” or in a local database somewhere.)

Since you are going to using a Pi, you should focus on that being a restricted host: Only run your chosen vault solution on it. Period. Secure and patch it to the best of your ability and use very specific host firewall rules for minimum connectivity. Ie: Have one user for ssh in and limit another user account to managing vault, preferably without needing any kind of elevated access. This is actually a perfect use case for SELinux since you can put in some decent restrictions on the host for a single app (and it’s supporting apps…)

If you are paranoid enough to run a HIDS, you can turn on all the events for any type of root account actions. In theory once the host is configured, you shouldn’t need root again until you start performing patches.

Second this.

Resins have a typical use-time for within a year. Some may last longer, some may not. Some may start to show exposure issues. Some just start to separate or solidify partially. Some resins don’t care at all. (It should be written somewhere on the bottle when the resin was made and when it should be used by.)

This is a helluva “unknown variable” you are working with, is my point. Resin is the absolute core of any printing functionality (obviously) and print settings are highly dependant on the resins qualities.

Just because I am so damn picky during my testing and learning process, I would abandon testing with that resin completely and be thankful it even printed a calibration test at all. (I would get a fresh bottle, is what I am saying.)

However, in the interest of using the resin, I would YOLO the exposure time (increase it) and start printing prototypes or other strange experiments. There is a bunch of things I could test even if using a sub-optimal resin.

You could spend time with the rest of that bottle and tweak the settings into partial-perfection. How reusable are those settings for future bottles though?

I see a lot of inconsistent exposure, which is super weird.

How old is the resin? New? Was it purchased at the time you got the printer? Was it well shaken? One particular resin I have will separate hard and basically needs a blender to get broken up again to be capable of printing.

The biggest issue I see is the gap in the outline at the very top of the print. That shouldn’t happen that late in the print at all. It’s iffy resin or there are small solid chunks floating around in your tank.

My first week with my resin printer was spent testing exposure and probably did about a hundred or so “cones of calibration” ( https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/3d-printing/the-cones-of-calibration-v3/ ) with a few different resins.

While a person generally needs to be a little on the crazy side to do that much testing, it was effective. After all of the that testing, what I found out is that comparing two prints with different settings is more valuable than just printing one single calibration test.

See if you can manage to print at least 8 tests at 8 different exposure levels. (I prefer 16, but you do you.) You will quickly learn how to interpret calibration tests and how exposure works.

But, back to your question and my official interpretation: You have a printer that is capable of printing! Yay! I ain’t being sarcastic and this is good. You do need some comparison prints though…

There was a precursor to butyl tape that I am thinking of specifically. It was more clay-like and just as nasty. (It would have been easier (subjective) to pinch off balls of the stuff and cram it in those screw holes.)

No mind. You had the correct solution, me thinks.

I absolutely agree and the goal is to extend that time for as long as possible. (But yeah, anti seize is actually a really good idea.)

Sounds like you have never had the “pleasure” of working with coax junction sealants before. It’s not too bad, but it’s also not fun either. It is very effective though.

I would personally cram in something related to COAX-SEAL into the screw holes. Having setup a few cables outside for antennas (ham radio) I have learned to never trust metal to metal connections when exposed to weather.

Coax-seal might be a bit hard to work with, so maybe some silicone caulk would work?

Neither am I. However, I have seen one or two people on ca that claim it’s an instance “for Canadians”, but that isn’t the majority view.

Canadian news is mild compared to other instances and their admins rock. They just did some good hardware updates and the instance is fairly reliable. 10/10, would recommend. The author of my client (Connect) is also on that instance, and I contribute a bit to that community as well.

I could see some downsides if the occasional post in French would piss you off.

'Madame, if that’s the way you see it, so be it. ’ - M.C. Escher

.ca is a bit more sane and not as authoritarian as .world or .ml. I don’t mind .world, but their admins are inconsistent, IMO

I am confused now. I was just called a “leftist Nazi” and “liberal right wing nazi”. Lulz.

My point is that I think the terms “leftist” and “liberal” have been redefined again, just as a heads up.

Well, I was banned from ml because of a conversation on another instance. It was something about reporting all ml posts as a rule 1 violation… I guess that could be considered inciting unrest against the CCP and Mother Russia.

Many (not all) ml users are fairly rabid when it comes to their own flavor of propaganda. If you ever casually chat with them on Lemmy, just understand that they have a completely different world view so don’t mention things related to politics, country borders, history, government structure, major battles during WW2, sparrow populations or what color the sky is and you should be fine.

That’s what you just got shown: Shove the configgy bits into Git.

You will likely have to find the configs you want to save first.

Please do! Success is awesome, but failure is important. Enders are pure hobby printers, after all. Half the fun is tearing them apart, rebuilding components and learning what works and what doesn’t for your own use cases.

Totally. There is heat from repeated deformation, but I didn’t explain how little heat it was, so I clarified in a later comment. All motion creates heat, etc, etc. (TBH, I shouldn’t have mentioned it. Oh well. I let that cat out of the bag, so it’s too late.)

But also yes, I have experienced PLA “cold flowing” on some parts as a well so I can confirm that for sure.

Keep in mind that any heat created from stress on plastic will still be minimal and it will just take lots of time to create visible deformation. You can mitigate this mostly by printing critical parts at 100% infill.

I always over-engineer parts that are mechanical. That is just my preference. If you look at the original part, it is likely designed to be strong on only one axis. This saves money and time for bulk manufacturing. (Compensate home prints with better materials or bulkier printing is my own rule of thumb. Everything is a trade-off, is my point.)

I would say it was a combination of being too tight and the tensioner being made as cheap as possible. You don’t need the belts “rock solid” and I would check the bearings/bushings on the other end for damage too. Any kind of wobble is going to amplify enough to show on your prints, but if that matters is up to you.

Also yes. It’s more than possible to print a replacement and I would check if there are better designs on Printables. Ideally, you want a metal one unless you print one out of PC or another strong, high temperature plastic. Repetitive bending creates heat and heat will eventually deform PLA or PETG. You will get a lot of repetitive motion on a tensioner. However, nothing really needs to be perfect, just temper any longevity expectations based on what you are willing to invest in time and materials.